CHAPTER FOUR TRAVEL NOTES FROM A SMALL ISLAND
I LOVE LINCOLN
We finished February with a three night stay in Lincoln for a get together. Lincoln is one of my favourite cities and we have visited quite often, usually with free accommodation; we were happy this time to volunteer to stay in a hotel and I knew which one to choose. Seven years previously we had stayed at The Lincoln, memorable for the bed that was extra small in the forlorn hope of making the room look bigger. From the outside you might think the building was council offices, so why did we want to stay there?
The front of the hotel looks out through picture windows across the road to the cathedral, so you can enjoy the view while eating your breakfast or sitting in the lounge. I love the lounge with its retro look and it was still as fun as I remembered.
I should point out that we had booked a bed and breakfast bargain in a standard room at the back of the hotel. We chatted to the staff and gathered the cathedral view rooms with balconies were larger, so if you are very tall please don’t be put off staying at this great hotel.
The staff were all friendly and helpful, the breakfast was delightful with plenty of choice; menu and cold and hot buffet. The dining chairs were a little strange, looking like they were made of glass, actually plastic, but felt rather flimsy. And what was our room like this time? Still small, but this time we had a little balcony looking over the garden and with a view of the top of the cathedral.
The location of the hotel is perfect; in the Lincolnshire landscape of flat fields and open skies the cathedral stands out in the distance. The old city is on the Lincoln escarpment, not a hill, though the narrow cobbled street you climb to reach the cathedral quarter is called Steep Hill. Nearby is The Collection, a child friendly museum and the Usher gallery. So whether you want to see the castle’s copy of the Magna Carter, explore the cathedral, enjoy art or archaeology, there is no need to wander far.
Of course no visit to Lincoln is complete without a walk up or down Steep Hill, the narrow cobbled street, usually thronged with people following in the path of the old pilgrims climbing up to the cathedral. There are ancient crooked little buildings that must have seen many changes, now enjoying life as intriguing shops or delicious eateries.
Keep going through the arch to enjoy modern shopping centres or follow the canal path to England’s oldest inland harbour to find your favourite chain restaurants and cinemas.
And if you are staying at The Lincoln Hotel you will have to walk back up the hill, although we did spot The Walk & Ride 'Steep Hill Shuttle' bus…
TURN TO CHAPTER FIVE BEACHWRITER'S BLOG TO SEE LINCOLN AT NIGHT
AND OTHER PICTURES
DIARY ENTRY AUTUMN 2016
One of the advantages of the internet is the ability to find temporary accommodation at the last moment. Your choice can be made not only by price and location, but by peering into bedrooms and reading reviews by previous guests. The latter may require some caution as the reviewers may only be moved to write because of a terrible experience and be prone to exaggeration. I always expect less than what is promised and fear we might arrive and find they have no record of our on line booking.
Because of the flexible nature of our time away we ended up staying in none of the places we had planned, but made some new discoveries.
We opted for the Holiday Inn, Sittingbourne because the bright orange, lemon and lime décor and modern furniture looked interesting to photograph. Arriving in pouring rain in the car park, the back of the hotel looked like an East European block of flats, but inside was as bright as promised. The receptionist was seemingly helpful and booked us in for dinner in the restaurant, warning that two coach parties were expected. The room was small with a huge bed and a bathroom with glass walls. Opening a drawer there was a blob of red that could have been blood or jam from a donut. We went back down in the tiny lift to report our findings; the woman on the desk seemed unfazed, but promised to send someone. We also remarked that we could find no stairs except those to the ‘gallery’ and the metal fire escapes. We followed directions and got lost, but eventually found ourselves at the front of the original Coniston hotel on the A2, which had a lovely cosy bar, ideal for a rainy afternoon and also served meals. Why had the receptionist made no mention of its existence? On the way back to our room we met the manager and a cleaner who reported without apology that the ‘blood’ had been cleaned up, too late to get forensics in, but a good idea for a story. We had no other complaints, but did notice that outside in the rain sodden wooden bower, presumably used for the advertised weddings, a dirty coffee cup and banana skin remained for the two days we were there.
The next day’s outing to Chatham Historic Dockyard and a brisk guided walk through HM Submarine Ocelot, a diesel electric vessel launched in 1962, was a reminder how comfortable it is to stay in any hotel compared to sharing two toilets ( the heads )among sixty nine men.
The Pegwell Bay Hotel, near Ramsgate was very different; a striking building with views over the bay, though not from our room. This hotel was once a convalescent home and boasted two tiled tunnels under the road that once led to a sea bathing pool, but now led to a pub where we had dinner and also to the Victorian Dining Room with sea views for breakfast. The ambience was spoiled by having a wide screen television stuck above the ornate bar. The only disappointment with this hotel was that we were not allowed up the tower because of health and safety.
A walk around the bay next morning gave us views of salt marsh nature reserves, a Viking ship and a strange discovery; the dystopian wasteland that had once been the hoverport operated between 1968 and 1987.
Our last hotel was Stade Court hotel on the Hythe seafront; boasting itself as a nineteen thirties building, any architectural merit was wiped out by the numerous extensions plonked on the front, sides and top. It must have been the location that kept them in business, certainly not the breakfast buffet with miniature croissants and luke warm tea and coffee poured out of flasks brought round intermittently. But the staff were friendly and the building fascinating inside. The lift had room for one person with no suitcase and after our trip up to the fourth floor with our luggage I refused to go in it again. The only room left to book had been a twin bed with no sea view, but it was not what we imagined. We walked into a tiny room with a single bed and a television, but there was a narrow stair leading up to a bedroom with two beds and a bathroom. Opening the top floor window confirmed we were at the very top of the building. The fire escape instructions indicated a ‘door’ into another bedroom, how we were meant to open it was not made clear, climbing out onto the flat roof seemed a better option. Noises, banging and yelling from the other side of the thin wall the next morning confirmed there was a family the other side and I had visions of the children bursting through the flimsy fire escape door. In the bathroom it was equally noisy with seagulls; you could see their orange feet pattering across the skylight. On our treks up and down the numerous staircases we observed something strange; on the third floor were rooms in the 300s, but also a sign pointing to room in the 100s. the signs led to another stairway that went back down. More ideas for stories.
Hythe itself was delightful and we had our best meals of the whole holiday here. Next to the hotel was the Hythe Bay Seafood Restaurant http://www.hythebay.co.uk/hythe/hythe.html with friendly staff and delicious food. In the town the next evening we strolled into the King’s Head http://www.kingshead-hythe.co.uk/food-drink and enjoyed the pies for which they are renowned. Here again the staff were friendly and enthusiastic.
Hythe is a must to visit again with its promenade, elegant canal and interesting buildings old and new. Perhaps next time we should splash out on the Hythe Imperial.
MAY 2016 TIME ON THE THAMES
Visiting the birthplace of democracy, golf championship at Wentworth, attending a wedding or taking the children to Legoland? Beaumont Estates was the place to be on Bank Holiday Weekend. We were there because there was no room at the inn.
Our usual pub bed and breakfast, The Windsor Trooper, is a short walk from Windsor Castle with early morning flights descending into Heathrow a few feet above the roof and breakfast cooked to order and served in the quaint conservatory.
We visit friends who are regulars at upmarket Macdonalds Hotel opposite the castle.
Beaumont was like a university campus; we were in the main building, but families had to trek to breakfast from the accommodation blocks. On Saturday morning there was a queue for breakfast with lots of children excited about going to Legoland. One young staff member told us that on his first morning there had been a thousand for breakfast. The huge dining room had a long buffet down the centre and side stations for drinks, toast and the pancake machine; it took us till Monday morning to find our way around. But the staff were friendly and efficient and with one or two large weddings each day the whole place was a writer’s people watching dream.
But who started the trend for dark décor in hotels? In a converted old building our room was a strange shape, the high sash windows provided a glimpse of green hill and an array of roofs, which we guessed by the constant noise of extractor fans belonged to the kitchens. In the gloom we tried to find where to plug the kettle in and the bedside lamp fell to pieces. The bedside table was hiding the only socket. The bathroom was all grey slate and unsuited for purpose. The shallow basin had nowhere to put the soap and tap handles likely to slice your fingers off. The towel rails were over the bath where the shower was.
However, the hotel foyer was bright and modern, the grounds were lovely and we were only ten minutes walk from the River Thames and the fields of Runnymede.
It was the American Bar Association that put up the monument to Magna Carta, but who needs a monument when justice and freedom Worldwide is attributed to it? Most visitors are just there to enjoy the freedom to wander. On a sunny weekend this part of the river is made for pleasure and leisure, everyone was out picnicking or boating.
Across the fields a footpath takes you through the woods to climb up Cooper’s Hill; at the top you will find the peaceful white elegant Royal Air Force Memorial. The morning we walked up was overcast, but the view was still amazing, encompassing Windsor Castle, the winding river in the foreground, three huge reservoirs and toy planes gliding silently into Heathrow Airport with Terminal Five and the control tower clearly visible. By the time we were back down in the fields the sun was blazing. The National Trust Magna Carta Tea room, in one of Sir Edwin Lutyens’s memorial lodges, rounds off a good walk.
A local bus took us through Old Windsor, across the Great Park and to Windsor town centre and the castle. This is where visitors can hop on frequent buses out of town to Legoland, which has been there for twenty years, but once upon a time was Windsor Safari Park.
Windsor is always busy; if you don’t want to join the long weekend queue for the castle you can still watch the Guards marching to and from their nearby barracks. The roads are closed to traffic either side of eleven o’clock. Near the castle is a fudge shop and we arrived just in time to see a demonstration of real handmade fudge; a bubbling copper cauldron, a cooling marble slab and an entertaining demonstration. http://www.fudgekitchen.co.uk/find-us/shops/windsor-fudge-kitchen-shop/
You can soon leave the crowds behind by walking to Home Park. With three games of cricket being played, it was hard to believe that 900 horses had been pounding these grounds just a fortnight ago for the Queen’s ninetieth birthday horse show
Back by the River Thames we walked to Romney Lock; if you aren’t lucky enough to be on the river you can enjoy the entertainment of boats going through the lock and spotting the amateurs who have hired a boat. All craft from the tiniest canoe, which could have been lifted and carried past on the tow path quicker, to the shiny big white boat with leather seats, the owners sipping wine on deck as the water rises. A footpath soon takes you back to town where a footbridge crosses over the river to Eton.
And how were the friends getting on at Macdonalds Hotel? Their room was also grey décor, but looked across to The Guildhall where Prince Charles and Camilla got married. The hotel foyer is long and narrow so you can watch all life go by as you lounge with a drink on comfy sofas. Our friends always get to know some of the guests, so there are always new people to chat to.
And did we meet the Queen? Not this time, but we did once see her on a winter’s morning as we walked up the Long Walk in the Great Park. A man in green uniform standing at a gate lodge was the only clue as a plain green car drove slowly past dog walkers and families. The Queen was driving, in the passenger seat was a man we presumed to be her private detective. We didn’t take any photos, that would be bad manners, but should we have bowed? What is the protocol when you are in the royal back garden?
SEPTEMBER 2015 - LAST MINUTE DOT COM
On the internet you can book holidays instantly. You can view hotels, cottages, B&B, boats, bedrooms, balconies and bathrooms; cast your eyes upon the surrounding scenery, read what others thought of the accommodation. But as you dream and type in the dates required the bubble bursts and you see the whole month is fully booked. So we set off on holiday with an eclectic mix of destinations nowhere near our planned route.
Botany Bay Hotel looked over Botany Bay, Broadstairs, Kent; a balcony room to start the holiday with a touch of luxury, a lovely view out to sea and a footpath down to the cove and sheer white cliffs accessible at low tide. Everything about the establishment was very pleasant, but strangely for a good hotel the television reception was bad and there was no wi-fi.
The price led us to have less expectations of the next place; a country park with a hotel and wedding venue. There was a wedding on the next day, perhaps that was why we were put in the stable block and had to walk to breakfast in the rain across the decking with the warning sign
Slippery When Wet.
Opening the outer door to our accommodation there was a strong smell of damp. Our room was clean, but small and gloomy. In contrast, the bathroom boasted a separate shower and huge corner bath with blue lights. The television and wi-fi worked well. Back at the main hotel for dinner the few staff were very friendly, if a little frazzled, as they had to multi task. The ‘recently refurbished hotel’ looked as if it had been done on the cheap.
A week in a cottage mid holiday is always handy for doing the washing and ironing and eating healthy meals, as long as you go shopping on the way and buy enough supplies. Our cottage was actually a converted calving shed, the directions described a lane and several landmarks to spot the entrance to the farm. No mention was made of how long the lane was, but we were in rural Sussex, so not surprised it was narrow, muddy and blocked by the occasional horse. After a couple of miles, certain we had missed the farm, we decided to turn round at the next opportunity, a muddy gateway which fortunately turned out to be our destination. Lucky we had our food supplies.
The owner was very friendly and spent a considerable time telling us about previous dreadful customers and the damage they had done, all the plans they had for the place in the future (paid for with our money presumably) and the complicated system for using the ‘launderette’ across the yard – there was no washing machine in the cottage and we had to buy tokens to put in the industrial machines, which we couldn’t use till he unlocked the laundry the next day.
The following morning it was pouring with rain, we didn’t buy enough tokens for the tumble driers – the clothes came out steaming wet and had to be hung around the cottage with the central heating on at full blast. But it was a pleasant dwelling and a few yards from the front door a muddy footpath led down through woods, then up across fields till we reached a view of the sea.
Our final destination was far better than we could have dreamed; bed and breakfast at West Dean College, a place we knew nothing about. The stately home’s owner, Edward James, was an eccentric artist and poet who established a foundation to provide education in conservation and the arts. We stayed in the vicarage and strolled over to the ‘big house’ for breakfast and dinner, where there were all sorts of interesting people on courses and numerous leather sofas to lounge around on, writing or feeling artistic. West Dean with its large grounds was exactly the place I had imagined for several short stories; no television, no wi-fi, a wall all around, secluded from the outside world. We were free to explore the fascinating house, given the key code for a back door and entered the galleried hall through a secret door in the wooden panelling.
Our first full day was sunny and we did the prescribed walk up the hill, through the woods, coming unexpectedly across the grave of Edward James. Downhill with the sheep and lunch at the gardens; Victorian greenhouses, orchards, beautifully laid out flower beds full of the colours of autumn. Sitting in the sun with the scent of flowers, buzz of bees and hum of appreciative human visitors, it was the kind of perfect day that cannot be planned.
SPRING 2015 EAST OR WEST?
If you enjoy the BBC series ‘Coast’ you will know how varied the coast of Britain is, whether viewed by helicopter or by the cameraman plodding along cliff tops out of sight, or lurking seasick in the bottom of a boat filming the grinning presenter. Personally I tire of the programme’s piecemeal approach, darting all over the country, confusing anyone not brilliant at geography. But like the relentlessly cheerful presenters, I never tire of visiting the coast.
The Isle of Thanet is the most Easterly point in Kent, no longer an island in the North Sea. We were visiting Margate in April for a wedding, the happy couple are hoping to buy a house there. Margate has been down, now it is reclaiming its position as a holiday destination and a good place to live. It should succeed; it has the new Turner Contemporary Gallery on the sea front and ‘Dreamland’ has been rescued from developers by the people of Margate. The sandy main beach is complemented by the new shallow steps where children can paddle and adults sit in the sun, but be careful, the steps are slippery when wet. Wedding guests stayed in lovely bed and breakfasts, smart sea front flats and the Premiere Inn handy by the railway station, confirming Margate is ready for visitors. There were run down parts, we weren’t sure if The Winter Gardens were open, but the building is alive and well. The same could not be said for The Lido whose towering sign remains a reminder of happier days, but the old part of town has character, including a genuine Tudor house.
We also had a chance to visit Ramsgate with its lovely harbour and Broadstairs, a holiday place full of charm.
1st July found us in Cornwall in the pouring rain, while the rest of the country was supposedly suffering the heat wave of the century. As the south western tip of England with its narrow fingers of land jutting out into the English Channel, the Celtic Sea and the North Atlantic, visitors can expect all kinds of weather, including Mediterranean blue skies. Originally isolated, but always popular with modern visitors, television viewers were reminded of its beauty after watching the new series of Poldark. We stayed at a bed and breakfast near Bodmin Moor and near where some of the Poldark filming had taken place. Once a hive of mining industry the moors are now left in peace for the enjoyment of ponies, sheep, cattle and walkers. The miners and fishermen of Cornwall and their families lived a hard life very different from that of most tourists.
It is the fishing villages in the coves and river mouths that give Cornwall its picturesque scenes. Built by necessity to be small and near their boats, clinging to the cliffs and often reached by narrow lanes, the original inhabitants would have been astonished to see their humble homes fetching high prices and being rented out as holiday homes.
One of our visits was to Polperro, signs warn you to turn off your Sat Nav long before you reach the village. All visitors must go to the vast car park with its large signs warning of dire consequences if drivers pass on their parking tickets to others. Holiday makers have their luggage taken by quad bike and trailer to their cottages. The village is very near and we were soon exploring and admiring flower displays. You can saunter round the harbour, climb up to the South West coast path and admire the rocky coastline. This is where the scenery has been created by nature, many of the rocks layered sideways proving the Earth’s crust has moved around a lot in its long history. Turquoise waves with snowy froth batter the rocks. Beaches are to be found in little coves in this part of the country.
THE WEBSITE OF AUTHOR JANET GOGERTY